Event: GO ON! Bloom Big Sparkling Wines of the Loire Valley Masterclass & Pairings
Region: The Loire Valley, France
Vins de Loir Website
Hosting Restaurant: La Connessa
La Connessa Website
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The 411 on the Sparkling Wines of the Loire Valley #
I was invited to a masterclass, led by the amiable Master Sommelier Chris Gaither, on the sparkling wines of the Loire Valley. This event was hosted by Vins de Loire, an interprofessional organization representing many of the Loire Valley wine producers of France. Obligatory Disclaimer: My participation was entirely free to me.
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Chris Gaither leading the class
The masterclass was a deep dive into the bubbly wines produced in the InterLoire, particularly the appellations of Crémant de Loire, Saumur, Vouvray, Touraine, and Anjou. They comprise the central sections of the Loire Valley, which is the largest river in France. The region is second only to Champagne in terms of sparkling wine production in the country.
This year is the 50th anniversary of Crémant de Loire’s designation as an appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC), an excellent reason to explore their offerings. All AOCs are regions of France recognized by the government for their distinctive local agricultural products. Typical Crémant de Loire wines are made with chenin blanc, smell of bruised apples, and spend less time aging on the lees—that is, less time taking on the yeastier notes of their Champagne cousins. Otherwise, the sparkling wines of the InterLoire do follow the traditional method of sparkling wine production.
The masterclass was hosted at La Connessa, an Italian restaurant in the Dogpatch. Naturally, we were eager to try the sparkling wines with their pairing menu.
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A sampling of the platter full of pairings.
As Chris educated us on the wines’ backgrounds, we drank, ate, and contemplated whether the pairings succeeded. Most did!
My Take on the Sparkling Wines of the Loire Valley #
The Wines and Pairings: The sparkling wine profiles that we sampled agreed with my palate. I prefer restrained oak aging for white wines and plenty of acidity, and they delivered on both counts. The acidity, however, was occasionally a touch bracing.
I also discovered that La Connessa makes sophisticated dishes even in bite form, many of which delighted when paired with the wines. Here are my favorites:
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The Domaine du Mouton Noir ‘Effervescent Brut’ NV smelled of clam shells and tasted of lemon and kumquat with a salivating saline. Paired with a halibut carpaccio, the seashore came roaring to life. The fish and wine were silky, and the chive and shallot flavors swam up from the depths.
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The Louis de Grenelle ‘Platine Blanc Brut’ NV was paired with focaccia di Recco, which was stuffed with stracchino cheese. The focaccia’s texture alternated between a cracker-crisp exterior and almost-doughy interior, with excellent seasoning. The wine likewise alternated between gala apple, kiwi, and lychee fruit notes and the smooth temperance of aloe vera. Eating them together made me imagine a fruit ice cream speckled with croissant flakes, and now I must find someone who makes that. Salt & Straw?
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I thought the pairing of a spring vegetable salad with the Bouvet-Ladubay ‘Saphir Saumur Brut Blanc’ 2023 was a triumph. The wine smelled of bruised apples and seashells, but a creamy thread washed through it, blending with the minerals. The wine popped when combined with those fresh vegetal flavors of spring pea and carrot. In turn, they gave way to the creamy goat cheese and pistachios sprinkled between the lettuce leaves.
Would I Pick Up Loire Valley Sparkling Wines? Like many folks in our packed room for the masterclass, I was impressed with the affordable pricing of these vibrant sparkling wines, mostly $20–$30 a bottle.
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As they offer lively minerality, subtle orchard and tropical fruits, and pleasant complexity—some of my favorite things for wines to do—I will not hesitate to purchase a bottle at a wine shop.
Attended 17 June 2025.
