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6 April, 2010

Easter Brunch at Revolution—Restaurant Review

Posted in : Dining in Durham - NC, Restaurants on by : The Gourmez

I just posted my dinner review of Revolution last Friday, so this is but an  addendum to that one, since we checked out their Easter brunch in the meantime! It was three courses for $35 a person, including biscuits and cornbread (both just all right) and coffee, tea, or juice. We were a little too early to try the cocktail options.

I started with the squash tamales.

Obviously large enough to be a whole meal itself, I enjoyed every bite. The flavor of squash wasn’t strong, but the tamale tasted so great with the salsa verde, radish, pico de gallo, and sour cream. Delicious.

Next up was the fried chicken and sweet potato waffles with wild flower honey, apple-smoked bacon.

Man, portions were huge for this brunch! The chicken was nicely fried and the potatoes intriguing, with mashed clumps of sweet potato poking out here and there. The bacon was almost overwhelming in flavor—never fear, I managed to eat both slices over two days. The helping of scallions did a lot to bring this dish together. It was good, but not as good as the tamales.

I chose the apple crisp with rum-raisin caramel sauce for dessert.

The sugar garnish was rather terrifying to behold, but that didn’t stop me from eating it all. The rum-raisin sauce was good, though almost redundant with the sugar garnish. I didn’t particularly like the crisp. There was hardly any apple contained within; it seemed to mostly be a puff pastry shell that was too much work to try and eat. Probably better for my stomach that way, anyhow.

My husband’s dishes were also huge, cured pork benedict that came with two whole helpings of eggs and muffins and thick slices of pork, a broiled grapefruit with a goat cheese sorbet, and the peanut butter pie with banana compote. Now, that was a dessert worth having: exceptionally creamy and a great combination of flavors.

Brunch is worth it at Revolution, though I don’t think they are planning to make it a regular occurrence. If you do make it to one, come with a very empty stomach or a need for leftovers for the next few days!

Reviewed 4.4.10.

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