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26 October, 2009

Restaurant Review–OnlyBurger (Durham)

Comments : 2 Posted in : Dining in Durham - NC, Restaurants on by : The Gourmez

OnlyBurger
Constantly Shifting Location, Durham
http://www.durhamcatering.com/onlyburger/
Burgers: $4.25-6.75  Bacon: $1
Cheese: $0.50  Fries/Chips: $1.50

OnlyBurger, a hamburger truck that moves from spot to spot in the Durham area, had become something of a legend to me by the time I finally tracked it down.  It is very often ranked as one of the best burgers in the area and yet, I never managed to be at the right place at the right time to give it a try.  Until this day. Per their twitter status, I knew they’d be nearby in the Research Triangle Park.

Did pure hamburger bliss await as the white interior light beckoned? A friend and I perused the menu then stepped up to the window to place our orders with the very friendly cashier (who I suspect might be an owner as well).

Burgers come with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, ketchup, and mustard. I said no to the last three options and chose mayonnaise instead for my single burger with swiss cheese.

It’s important to note that OnlyBurger butters their buns before toasting them.

For $4.25, I’ve got to say I was not impressed. The butter-toasting method results in a mostly soggy bun with a bit of crispness. The patty was cooked to medium doneness, which is pinker than my preference, but it was very flavorful. The cheese was not melted, which is almost sacrilege as far as I’m concerned.  The rest of the toppings were fine, but nothing so amazing that I must go have one again.  I’d give Five Guys the edge and I thought the Five Guys burgers were overly drippy.  I think my idea of a good burger, which does not involve an extra dose of grease or butter, must simply diverge from Durham’s norm.

The fries, however, were great.  Many thanks to my tweeps who insisted I try them.

Now, they were a great deal for the price.  There was quite a heap in my bag. They tasted fresh, with great seasoning including some pepper. The texture was pretty good, but slightly droopier than my preference. They were very similar to Inn -N-Out’s fries, but I liked these more (I’m not an Inn-N-Out evangelist, either).

Were my expectations too high?  Probably. Regardless, my quest to find the best Durham burger for me continues. Perhaps The Federal will be next?

2 stars

Reviewed 10.14.09.

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